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Restore grid after pcolormesh

Duncan Macleodrequested to merge
github/fork/duncanmmacleod/pcolormesh-restore-axes into develop

matplotlib's Axes.pcolormesh method sets ax.grid(False) for some reason:

https://github.com/matplotlib/matplotlib/blob/v3.0.2/lib/matplotlib/axes/_axes.py#L6007

so this PR adds a decorator to gwpy.plot.axes that can be used to restore the grid settings after an Axes call to what they were before, and applies it to the pcolormesh override method.

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